KULFIWALA OF MHOW

The army has its own fair share of stories and people who have over the years become nothing less than legends in their own right. The Kulfiwala of Mhow is one such name, which has enthralled many generations of the Indian Army with his mouth-watering, home made kulfi! I first heard of him from my parents a long time ago and ever since whenever we are in the esteemed portals of this educational town, I have availed every opportunity of enjoying his kulfi.

As a ‘JC’ wife I took full advantage of this exotic gourmet and many a mediocre meal was relegated to top spot when it was followed by this delicious frozen dessert. But the full impact of the ‘Kulfiman’ syndrome hit me when my young daughters started awaiting him every afternoon, while we accompanied hubby dearest for his ‘SC’ course. That is when I decided to talk to him about this magical spell with which he binds every fauji family. Since the 1960’s when his father Pt. Kanhaiya Lal Sharma, known as Panditji, started this delicious tradition, the legend has grown to encompass officers of all walks, who are advised by friends and well-wishers to try out the daily dose of thandi kulfi, while they are at Mhow. Today his sons and grandsons are carrying on the family business. Gouri Shankar Sharma, a postgraduate in commerce, left his career to help out his father and carry on the kulfi tradition. He remembers accompanying his father occasionally on the evening rounds of Kulfi-selling when he was still a small boy in "half pants", and has met officers who remember him since then!

Back then, the family had moved to Mhow from Pithampura and were quite hard up for money. Selling kachhoris, moong dal halwa and kulfi in the market, along with fresh milk from their small in-house dairy was their only means of survival. As luck would have it, one of the officers suggested that they should sell the kulfi (which was even then quite amazing) in the army area to increase their sale. He helped get them a pass and the legendary ‘kulfiman’ began his rounds. Initially he started the trade on his cycle, visiting only the Infantry School every evening around five. Gradually as his wares became popular his elder son joined him, one managing the clientele in Malcolm Lines and the other handling the crowd in Karbala. Later they would proceed to MCTE. The famous Lambretta was bought in 1982 and since has driven a member of the Sharma clan on his daily routine come rain, sleet or heat! By and by the people of Mhow got attuned to the sound of the kulfiwala’s scooter and his soft call.

Now the father, Panditji is no more and the elder brother has also retired to regulate the business from the comforts of his home. Out of the other four brothers, the responsibility of the kulfi selling is now shouldered by Gouri Shankar and one brother with a nephew lending a helping hand, while the other two are managing a stone crusher in Pithampura. The family is financially stable now, attributing their success to the kulfi business. Their joint family comprises thirty one members and the younger generation has all studied well, with two engineer graduates and more aspiring for various interesting fields like IT and Chartered Accountancy. Pattering out ‘knowledge-fully’ the names and durations of all courses being conducted here, he began reminiscing about the regard showered on his father by all the officers and the lifelong friendships made; how many a youngster returned as a senior officer but still maintained the same cordial relationship, irrespective of his present status.

The kulfiwalas have changed their timings to cater to the changed schedules but the returns do not balance well. "We will carry on till we can for we are doing to earn love and goodwill. But the younger generation might not think so…" remarks Gouri Shankar. ‘How true thou speaketh’, for many a times an officer might be checked at the sentry posts of these revered institutes but the kulfiwala travels free without restrictions, eagerly awaited every afternoon. How I hope by some lucky graces he may continue to vend his tasty wares for a long time to come and every time we return he is back with the delicious kulfi in leaf pattals, at my doorstep!