Nestling in the by lanes of Shahpurjat, is a cosy nook; a design studio of the unpretentious but elegant, ethnic designer Mridula Sharma. Popularly known by her nick name Kumkum, she has established herself as a designer of repute among the circle of select buyers in India and abroad.
Braving the fog and excessive chill of Delhi winters, she is diligently at work when I arrive for a little tête-à-tête at her studio.
The outfits are a beauty! Lovely hues of bright fuchsias, peacock blues, demure greens, vivacious violets, pinks and purples; all embellished with breathtaking embroidery and detailing in crystal and metallic sequins and such like… It took tremendous effort to still my heart, which was delighting at the stacks of lovely dresses and concentrate on the job on hand!
Reminiscing about her days as a navy wife, she softly unravelled the stories which pushed her to achieve such distinction among the designing fraternity!
Kumkum passed her textile designing nearly thirty three years back, from the South Extention Polytechnic in South Delhi, “when there was no NIFT on the horizon”; and then selected the path of matrimonial bliss rather than a career. Her husband, Commodore G. Sharma (Retd.) or Gyanu as he was popularly known as, was a pilot in the Indian Navy. As a navy wife she was soon caught up in the “drill of socials, children and transfers, which every forces wife goes through.”
A chance meeting with Mrs KK Nayyar, the then CNC’s wife, who noticed her hand painted dress and told her that she was far too talented to waste her abilities on mundane things, got her thinking seriously about channelling her designing aptitude. The navy ladies encouraged her and thus begun her modest foray into the competitive portals of Indian dress designing.
She started hand painting suits, dupattas and sarees for her close friends in the navy circle and did a course in fashion designing when her husband was posted in Mumbai. She also assisted some well known designers and Bollywood personalities. Her foray into independent designing began with a single outfit (because of the restrictions of a force’s salary); which sold in Gliterrati, Mumbai. She would “design on paper, work out the colour combination, choose the fabric and use job workers available in the market.” Soon she gained popularity and unimagined success and the rest as they say is history!
Her designs were showcased on a centrespread in Femina, in 1990. Participation in a women’s exhibition in the World Trade Centre, in 1994 and 1995 catapulted her label ‘Kumkum’ to greater heights. She put up various exhibitions and shows for a while, but health and family commitments forced her to discontinue her label.
She now designs for Indian ethnic, high end boutiques, here in India and abroad. She specialises in formal and bridal wear and believes that the buyer’s trust, respect and goodwill that she has earned in the industry is apt reward for her hard work. Her designs are original and she goes into meticulous details of embroidery and embellishments, paying careful attention to the colours, shades, texture and materials used. Every outfit is a dream which has been lovingly crafted by Kumkum and her workers.
The bonhomie existing among her team is reflected in the yards of embellished silks, crepes, velvets, georgettes and other textiles adorning her studio. Her commitment to quality and originality has established her in good faith with many reputed buyer’s who respect and encourage her to carry on. She has a loyal clientele abroad and has earned their friendship and respect.
It is her husband’s unstinted support and her children’s love which has seen her through the tough times and helped her emerge a stronger person, each time. She is hopeful that her daughter, a mother of two and a talented fashion designer will be able to revive her label again someday. Kumkum confessed that she not only needs to increase her presence in the designing market but also wants to develop an attitude which befits a fashion designer; but I felt that her warm, down-to-earth and caring style is what suits her best and that is what has made her a star!
By Poonam Talwar Sayal
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